Blackwarren Travelogue Part Three
In our last installment, Blackwarren Editor Ren De Fleauraux recounted his trip through Barcelona and Carcassone. Today, we turn to Marseilles, Monaco, and beyond.
Day 4
The night leading into this day was unfortunately not my best; rough waters and a nightmare about my father's death haunted me into the morning. Thankfully, we had the morning to relax, and had quite a view to wake up to: Marseilles. Often hailed as the crown jewel of France's Riviera, Marseilles is the second largest city in France, only behind Paris itself. The bad thoughts of the day slowly melted away like the last bit of winter frost in spring, as a warm, bright sun and a clear blue sky were overhead this absolute painting of a city. It sprawls luxuriously across rocky stone cliffs and high hills with gorgeous villas and neo-byzantine churches perched atop their peaks.
We actually didn't journey into the city until the afternoon, and Tan took the opportunity to get a hair appointment while myself, Hal, and Jack met for a mercifully late breakfast. While the ship is undoubtedly comfortable and luxurious, getting up consistently at 7 in the morning is a trial for a night owl like myself. When we all traveled into the city, I was bowled over by its charming boulevards and picturesque vistas; it wasn't unlike a Ghibli movie come to life, the city from Kiki's Delivery Service or some of the background shots in Porco Russo coming to mind. Sadly, we were on a bus tour running on a tight schedule, so we didn't actually get that much time to savor it— it was like being shown a buffet of delicious-looking food, then being told you could only take as much food as could be put into a dixie cup.
Marseilles' history is also quite prestigious, being the oldest city in France. It was founded by Greek traders around 600 BC, as the Ancient Greek world was in fact far larger than most people may think. Called Massalila, it was a prosperous port that traded with the Phoenicians in Carthage and Gaulish tribes, and later the Romans, until it was absorbed into the Empire by Julius Caesar. After the fall of the Empire, it regained its independence for a time, only to be absorbed by the two great powers of Medieval Europe, the Holy Roman Empire first, then France in 1481. King Louis XIV, the Sun King, made his mark on the city, adorning it with his image and Sun King regalia on official buildings that he built in glorious French baroque and new fortifications in a flex of royal power. For all this, our tour guide humorously called Louis XIV "the most humble man in France."
Good French food under a glorious sunset chased away the last dark thoughts, and while I'm still tired from a lack of sleep, I'm very much looking forward to Monaco the following morning.
Day 5
Monaco is one of those postcard cities that always looks amazing. Much like Marseilles, the city is sprawled across a series of dramatic hills and sea cliffs, the staggering monument to excess and capitalism known as the Monte Carlo Casino glitters like a crown jewel, and the stately Grimaldi Palace, home of Monaco's prince, crowns the most prominent cliff. Sadly, we will not be sampling the splendors of the city directly, nor losing what little money I have left to my name on a card table. Instead, we are traveling to Antibes and Cagnes, two small seaside villages just on the French border.
We passed through Nice on our way, which reminded me quite a bit of Miami back in Florida, though change out Miami's iconic Art Deco and Bauhaus architecture with gorgeous Second Empire style. Coming into Antibes, we pass by a gigantic harbor known as "Millionaire's Row," as each and every boat docked there costs more than every house my parents ever owned combined. I had a sudden urge to turn to piracy and plundering I hadn't felt since the Pirates of the Caribbean movies were still good, but we have culture to experience.
The Sun King, Louis XIV, makes his presence known again. Antibes had been reincorporated back into France after being yoinked by the Genoese Republic during his reign, and Louis wanted to make sure it stayed in France. The old town is ringed by imposing, stout stone walls and ramparts that stretch out into the sea, and every gate has Louis' extremely humble face sneering down at you with imperious indignity. Inside, however, Antibes is just as picturesque as any French town you could imagine, with romantic vistas and cobblestone streets, brightly painted houses covered in ivy, and beautiful baroque churches.
What's really drawn us here, however, is the art. Antibes is home to a museum dedicated to Picasso, housed in one of the old castles built by Monaco's ruling dynasty, the Grimaldis. Picasso's most famous works are scattered to the four winds, standing in prestigious museums across the world, but here we get a more playful insight into the famous artist. The works shown here are either focused on motifs from classical myths or showing his pet owl, to which Picasso was apparently very attached and was accordingly adorable.
The second giant of art we get to experience is Pierre-Auguste Renoir, who had a villa built for himself and his family in neighboring Cagnes. Renoir was one of the great French Impressionists, alongside the likes of Monet and Matisse. He loved painting the olive groves and flowers that dotted his sprawling hilltop estate, and the beautiful women that he often invited to lounge in their shade, much to the consternation of Madame Renoir. I know, a snooty French artist who collects women like some people collect trading cards? How original.
Tonight, we bid adieu to France for the last time, and now are bound for the birthplace of the Renaissance: Florence.
Tune in next time for more of Ren’s fantastic travelogue!